From Scratch
Submitted by Lara McCormack
There is so much rhubarb growing in the valley right now, and many of you are wondering what to do with it. Our valley provides optimal growing for this perennial sour vegetable that plays wonders in and out of the kitchen.
The word rhubarb comes from the Latin word ‘rhababarum’, which means ‘root of the barbarians.’ The Romans labelled people who ate rhubarb as ‘barbarians.’ It’s been documented that the Chinese began growing rhubarb as early as 2700 BC. When the seeds came to America in late 1700, it was called the “Persian Apple’ as it was thought to be an exotic Asian fruit. In the 19th century, rhubarb was desired for medicinal qualities, including a laxative, purgative, used for prevention of gum disease, an anti-inflammatory, and general health tonic. Rhubarb is full of magnesium and a very good source of dietary fiber, vitamin C, vitamin K, calcium, potassium and manganese. It is also low in saturated fat and sodium, and very low in cholesterol. In other words, in moderation, its’ good for you!
Rhubarb also had a dark side. The leaves are poisonous, containing oxalic acid, which can be fatal if consumed in large doses. So please don’t eat the leaves! When picking rhubarb, pull and twist so the stalk comes away from the bulb; do not cut it from the plant. This will keep your plant healthy and thriving.
Over the years, rhubarb has been made more palatable thanks to sugar. Typically used in pies, crumbles and jams, the tangy flavour is addicting! It also makes an addicting juice, a delicious pickle and is tasty when roasted. A favorite childhood memory of mine is walking out to our garden with a small bowl of sugar, picking a stock and dipping it in sugar. The first bite wakes up the taste buds and was a sign that summer is around the corner!
There are two types of rhubarb: “hothouse,” also called “strawberry rhubarb,” and “field grown or “cherry rhubarb.” The names are informative. Hothouse are more cultivated and have a paler, pink color; the field grown, grown wild, can be coarser, have a more acidic taste, and a deeper pink color.
The color of the stalks will be the color of the cooked rhubarb. So, if you buy pale green stalks, your finished dish, whether a rhubarb crisp or a compote, will also be pale green. If you want to ensure your cooked rhubarb has a pink color, select stalks that are as pink or red as you can find.
Rhubarb stalks contain a great deal of moisture. This is a plus when stewing to make a compote because adding a little sugar will help draw out water and you won’t need to add any additional liquid except for flavor, as with a tablespoon or so of orange juice or port. But all that liquid is a factor when making a pie or crisp or cobbler. Adding a little thickening agent, such as tapioca, cornstarch or flour will help prevent the rhubarb from flooding anything you bake.
Choose stalks that are firm and crisp with a bright, clear color. Avoid ones with blemishes and if you happen to find stalks sold with their leaves intact, discard the leaves before storing and cooking the rhubarb.
Store raw rhubarb stalks refrigerated, left unwashed until you’re ready to cook them, and loosely wrapped in a plastic bag.
Because of its high amount of acid, rhubarb is best cooked in non-reactive cookware. For example, don’t make a rhubarb cobbler in a cast iron casserole.
If the stalks seem coarse, pull off any obvious strings. You don’t have to peel the stalks; just trim off any rough areas or marks. The stalks are usually cut into 1/2 to 1-inch pieces before cooking, with slices cut on the diagonal, against the grain of the stalk – this helps break any stringiness.
The following recipe results in two dishes that are versatile to enjoy.
Strawberry-Rhubarb Syrup and Mash
Ingredients: 2 1/2 cups dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc; 3/4 to 1 cup sugar – start with less and add more as needed; 6 tablespoons local honey; 2 to 3 cups strawberries, halved and stems removed; 2 pounds’ rhubarb, trimmed and sliced 1/4-inch-thick (makes 8 to 10 cups); 2 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice.
Simmer wine in a 6-quart saucepan with 3/4 cup sugar, honey and strawberries. Bring to a low boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes.
Lift strawberries out with a slotted spoon and let them cool in a bowl. After a few minutes, pour strawberry juices from bowl back into wine mixture. Store strawberries in refrigerator to eat later over ice cream or yogurt.
Add rhubarb to wine, cover and bring to low boil over medium heat for about 3 minutes. Uncover and simmer until rhubarb is falling apart, about 7 minutes.
Strain mixture through a fine sieve set over a bowl. Work in batches if necessary, stirring with a spatula or spoon to allow syrup to collect in bowl.
When most of the liquid has drained and the rhubarb mash is the texture of apple sauce, transfer the mash to a bowl. Add 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Taste and, if desired, adjust with additional sugar or lemon juice. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Add 1 tablespoon lemon juice to syrup. Taste and, if desired, add additional sugar or lemon juice.
Makes about 2 cups rhubarb mash and 3 cups syrup.
The mash, a confit in French culinary jargon, is good for spooning over toast, eating with sharp cheese or pork, or topping vanilla ice cream. The syrup can be added to orange juice, blended with plain seltzer water to make a soda, mixed in with gin or a margarita, topped on your favorite ice cream, or poured over fresh berries for a dessert.
Lara McCormack is co-owner of From Scratch – A Mountain Kitchen in Fairmont Hot Springs where one can savor fabulous, seasonal food, sip from a selection of BC wines and enjoy the views of our gorgeous valley landscape.
